Archive for the ‘Surfing’ Category

Thoughts About Shark Attacks & Surfing

Wednesday, October 27th, 2010

SharkLast Friday there was a shark attack incident at a beach in Santa Barbara County, California in which a young man, 19 years-old, was fatally bitten while bodyboarding. It is obviously a very tragic event, the victim’s family is surely grieving for having lost a loved one, as anyone would be in their situation. However, surfers, bodyboarders, swimmers, et. al. who go into the ocean are, or should be, aware of the risks they run.

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Surf Session on a December Day in Costa Rica

Wednesday, October 27th, 2010

Costa Rica waveAt 5:30 AM the alarm sounds. I wake to blue December Costa Rican skies, grab my quad fish and take the ten-minute walk to my local surf break. During the walk the howler monkeys are having their morning conference “hooo, hooo, hooo, hooo”. I pass through the mangroves and pause, check out the blossoming mangrove trees, take a deep breathe inhaling through my nose, and give thanks to the new day. A few minutes later I’m at the shoreline of my home break, “Playa Chaman”, in the Marino Ballena National Park. The waves are chest high with slight offshore breeze. The sun is coming up over “el cierro del tigre” and the suns rays dance on the face of the waves. I take a few moments to stretch, strap on my leash, and start my walk into the Pacific Ocean. At waist deep water I lie down on my surfboard and start the paddle to reach the outside where the waves are forming. Once outside, I wait patiently for the first morning wave. One minute. Two minutes. Three minutes. Finally, I see a wave coming, but inside the wave I see a dark shadow. My heart starts to pound. What is that? The wave passes. I’m the only one out.

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Choosing a Beginner Surfboard

Wednesday, October 20th, 2010

SoftboardsAs with any new activity you take-up, there is always the build-up and excitement of getting some new “toys”. With surfing it’s no different, you will have to decide what surfboard to get. The first thing you’ll probably be inclined to do is research the latest and greatest surfboard technology, and the best surfboard shapers and brands. However, forget about that. (more…)

Shifting Gears: From Baseball To Surfing

Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

In September of 1999 I started studying at the University of San Diego (USD). My intentions of studying at USD were two-fold, academics and baseball. However, as school started, and baseball trainings became the norm, I decided that my focus at USD should be academics. After talking with family and friends, I made the decision to stop playing baseball and I went and visited USD’s head baseball coach to break the news. Upon receiving the news he said, “Well Travis, it’s real easy to be a regular student.” Hmm??? What did that mean, that without baseball, I would become a regular student? I had plans; plans that I thought far exceeded a regular student. I was going to travel, study abroad, double major, join University clubs, work, and occasionally, party and surf! (more…)

Surfing and Kids, A Powerful Combination

Monday, October 18th, 2010

Rio Breaks movie trailerI recently read a movie review article on Surfline.com by freelance-writer Mark Anders. The review is on the documentary “Rio Breaks: a Story about Surfing and Survival”, a story about two young kids from the favelas, or ghettos, of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, their struggle to keep from being sucked into violence and gangs, and the role that surfing plays.

Surfing has grown to world-wide popularity and the establishment of a multi-billion dollar industry with largely recognized brands, millions in competitive prize money, and influence in mainstream culture. However, the power of surfing extends well beyond all of this. (more…)

Remember Your First Surfing Lessons?

Monday, October 18th, 2010

Travis surfing costa ricaAlmost everyone remembers his or her first surfing lesson, or surfing experience. Mine took place on the beaches of Silver Strand, in Coronado, California. Every summer my family, along with some very close family friends, would visit the Silver Strand for weeks on end, using their motor home as a temporary beach house. Our daily schedule for those two weeks went something like this: (more…)